Welcome to 1-800-VINTAGE!
Let's be friends :)
Hi, I’m Alex! And this is your personal vintage hotline, 1-800-VINTAGE. I created this platform because this vintage stuff is honestly pretty confusing. The resources out there are a mix of good, bad, and seriously outdated. How are you supposed to know if that psychedelic dagger-collar top is actually from the 70’s, or just looks like it is? Is there a way to figure out what it’s made of without any labels? How are you supposed to wash it? Will a 50-year-old coffee stain even come out? On most days it feels like there are a lot more questions than answers, and some of the so-called answers out there can feel dubious at best. While I certainly don’t have all of them, you can bet I’m working on having as many as I can.
But first, a little about me. I’m a 30-something vintage collector and lover in NYC, and I’ve owned and operated a vintage clothing brand for almost four years. I’ve been an avid shopper and collector of old stuff for most of my life, and have sold and styled vintage at iconic markets and amazing indie pop ups all over the city. I have a bachelor’s degree in journalism, which pairs excellently with my meticulous nature and my truly dorky fondness for research. Some of my earliest memories are of being dressed up on set as a toddler model in Japan, the start of a lifelong love for campy purses and matching sets. I accidentally taught myself fashion industry vocabulary by spending an upsetting amount of my early 20’s online shopping. I’ve made pretty much every laundry mistake there is to make, so you don’t have to.
So you may be wondering - if I’m a vintage dealer myself, why would I want to give any of this information away? The market is only growing increasingly more competitive, with new vintage sellers popping up every day. Here’s how I think of it: when made and cared for properly, clothing doesn’t truly belong to anybody, because it lives far beyond the years that any one person does. We’re simply lucky enough to be the vessels of vintage, the temporary caretakers for wearable art and expression, doing our best to imbibe a little piece of ourselves in something before it moves on to the next pair of hands, or legs, or boobs. Vintage items are a precious, finite, and dwindling resource. There are a limited (and forever shrinking) number of vintage pieces out there, and it benefits us all to keep these things in circulation for as long as possible. Every vintage garment tossed in a dumpster or thrashed in a piping hot wash cycle is a garment that no longer gets to be worn by anyone. The more knowledge we’re all armed with, the better our chances at actually keeping this stuff alive.
Here’s what you can expect from 1-800-VINTAGE:
Specific information about how to identify and date vintage garments. I’ll take you through my process of how I assess clothing and accessories based on factors like labels, brand history, garment construction, and more.
Breakdowns of proper garment care, including stain removal, dry cleaning, storage, mending, and reuse. This will include deep dives into topics like the history of specific textiles, ways garments are constructed, and other lessons that will help build a better understanding of clothing as a whole.
Discussions about shopping, with a focus on secondhand and vintage. I’ll be passing along my tips and tricks for finding special things both in person and online.
Conversations on personal style, which is a key component to truly embracing a secondhand first lifestyle. Without the stylized ads, carefully merchandised mannequins, and the allure of “new” that you get with traditional retailers, it can be hard to navigate what you’re looking for, or what to do with the things you have. I’m here to help!
My goal is for this newsletter to grow and evolve as it goes. I’ll lean into the topics that we find the most engaging, and am super open to feedback on what you do and don’t like about my future content.
I’m here to share everything I know, but the thing is - I’m still learning too! I’m constantly seeking out new resources through books, podcasts, social media creators and online archives. All of these resources are available to us all, and I think it’s very important not only to give credit, but to open up my sources for those of you looking to learn more on your own. This introductory newsletter is where I’ll share some of my personal favorite sources for learning. As I’m constantly finding new people and places to add to my list, I’ll continue to share similar resource guides in the future.
If you’re looking to identify or learn more about a specific vintage garment:
The Vintage Fashion Guild
Website: https://vintagefashionguild.org/
IG: @vintagefashionguild
IYKYK. This website is the ultimate resource for vintage apparel and accessories, including a pretty thorough label database and lots of helpful (if not old) message board conversations. If you’re a seasoned vintage shopper you’re definitely already familiar, but if you’re new to the scene, you should definitely bookmark this one! They also post really interesting vintage pieces on their Instagram, which is worth a follow.
Fashion Conservatory
Website: https://fashionconservatory.com/
IG: @fashionconservatory
Similar to the VFG, the Fashion Conservatory (which, up until recently, was called the Vintage Constellate) provides a pretty extensive label resource on their website. On top of their archives, they also host their own sales platform and blog. The items listed for sale on this website are very well researched, and I would consider the pieces on FC to be more accurately dated than those on other major resale sites. Their Instagram account is primarily dedicated to fashion history and terminology, with posts like “What is Lamé Fabric?”
Institutional & Media Archives
A great deal of fashion history has been preserved and recorded by institutions like museums, media outlets, schools, and historical organizations. Most of these have archives that are available to browse online, and many of them are free to access. This can include newspaper and magazine scans, photos and descriptions of collection pieces, runway coverage, and more. These are some of the most reliable sources out there as they are researched and cataloged by experts, and are generally edited and fact checked before publication.
Reddit
There are tons of communities on Reddit for vintage, fashion, and all manner of collectibles, most notably (for us) r/VintageFashion. This sub can be a bit of a hodgepodge, but there are tons of posts from people crowdsourcing information on their finds. Obviously comments from internet strangers should always be taken with a grain of salt, but there are often people chiming in with interesting vintage history tidbits that are pretty easy to verify. I’ve never posted here myself, only lurked, but I definitely think it wouldn’t hurt to ask this community about identifying a vintage piece you’re really stuck on.
Resale Platforms
Searching for existing listings on websites like Etsy and Ebay can be a really good starting point, but should generally be used in conjunction with other sources. While there are hundreds of seasoned, reliable sellers out there who really know their stuff, there are also plenty of sellers who have little to no experience in accurately dating vintage. Unless a seller is able to offer definitive support for their dating (an advertisement featuring the same item, an original receipt, firsthand account from the item’s original owner, etc), make sure you’re supplementing whatever you find with further research.
If you’re looking to more broadly expand your knowledge of vintage:
The Little Guide to Vintage Shopping by Melody Fortier
An excellent book by a seasoned vintage dealer that outlines a little bit of everything when it comes to shopping vintage. Fortier breaks down identification by silhouette, construction, and style, with plenty of helpful do’s and don’ts in the world of vintage. This book covers everything from how to determine garment quality to how to clean and mend your clothing. The biggest drawback of this book is the 2009 publication date, lending itself to some out-of-date references, particularly around online shopping and specific store recommendations that are sadly no longer around.
My Best Vintage Life
Website: https://www.mybestvintagelifepodcast.com/
IG & TikTok: @mybestvintagelifepodcast
Bridget and Art are the duo behind My Best Vintage Life, which takes you behind the scenes of their vintage wholesale warehouse in Fresno, California. They share a lot of brand and garment history, show off stockpiles of cool vintage, and offer tips and tricks you can only get from industry veterans. Art has decades of experience in vintage wholesale, with extensive knowledge specifically in military surplus, workwear, and denim. I personally enjoy their online content more than their podcast, but they have many category-specific episodes that are definitely worth a listen! My business isn’t scaled for much wholesale shopping, but they seem like a reliable source for both in-person and online wholesale ordering for those of you that may be looking.
If you’re looking to learn more about a specific category of vintage:
Cherie Balch
Website: www.shrimptoncouture.com
IG: @shrimptoncouture
Balch is one of the best in the business when it comes to luxury fashion, a go-to for celebrity stylists and major fashion publications for both her vintage collection and her expertise. Balch’s passion for design and history comes across clearly in her posts, and she provides tons of detailed information on both the pieces she sells and her archive items. If you’re interested in learning about high-end, designer, and couture vintage, look no further.
The Vintage Purse Museum
Website: https://vintagepursemuseum.com/welcome
IG & TikTok: @vintagepursegal
An extensive private collection of vintage bags, accessories, and ephemera housed in Arizona by a very passionate and knowledgeable collector. The museum’s collection of over 3,000 pieces is accessible entirely online via photo galleries, articles, and more.
Tags & Threads
IG: @tagsandthreads
Tags & Threads is an excellent resource for those with an interest in sportswear, outdoor apparel, and casual menswear. Featured tags and posts typically highlight brands that specialize in t-shirts, sweatshirts, shoes, hats, and jackets. They also published a Guide to Vintage Champion, available to purchase via their website. I have a copy of this book, which I recommend if you have a particular interest in this category.
If you’re looking to deep dive into the history of fashion and the people who shaped it:
Articles of Interest
Probably my all time favorite fashion podcast to date! Host Avery Trufelman pinpoints specific intersections of fashion and culture to bring us truly fascinating stories about what we wear, and why. The “American Ivy” season is a highlight, though there are few enough episodes that I’d really recommend just listening to all of them.
Dressed: The History of Fashion
IG: @dressed_podcast
An extremely well-researched podcast with a years-long backlog of episodes. Fashion historians April Calahan and Cassidy Zachary release twice weekly episodes including topics like museum exhibitions, fashion photographers, the invention and timeline of specific garments, and more. Many episodes are interviews with industry experts, who are brought in to discuss everything from Space Age fashion to the history of leopard print.
Rachel Elspeth Gross
IG: @rachel.elspeth.gross
Gross is a fashion historian and writer, and the head of the Fashion History Department at the Fashion Conservatory. Her Instagram account is dedicated almost daily postings that serve as mini-biographies on major fashion industry influences. Posts include photo carousels and very thorough captions (often continued in comments) covering designers, photographers, models, and more.
If you’re looking to learn more about sustainability in fashion:
The Conscious Closet, by Elizabeth Cline
I highly recommend this book for anyone just getting started on their sustainable fashion journey. This book serves as a welcoming and comprehensive source on how to approach clothing and dressing more mindfully, and why it matters. Cline offers specific advice on shopping, mending, styling, and more. For those more seasoned in the fashion sustainability space, this one may feel a bit entry level.
Clotheshorse Podcast
Website: https://www.clotheshorsepodcast.com/
IG: @clotheshorsepodcast
If you’ve coming to this newsletter through my Instagram, you’re probably already familiar with Clotheshorse. Host Amanda tackles all things fashion, style, and industry, with tons of amazing guests, including yours truly. Clotheshorse offers incredibly well-researched (and very cute) content via Instagram as a more condensed version of the lengthy podcast episodes. Their website also includes an incredible Small Business Directory that offers up amazing recommendations for places to buy homemade, vintage, and bespoke items alongside services like mending and personal styling.
Aja Barber
Website: https://www.ajabarber.com/
IG: @ajabarber
In her own words, "I am a writer, stylist and consultant whose work deals with the intersections of sustainability and the fashion landscape. My work builds heavily on ideas behind privilege, wealth inequality, racism, feminism, colonialism and how to fix the fashion industry with all these things in mind.”
Barber is one of the most thought-provoking people I follow on social media. I highly recommend her book, Consumed, and supporting her work via Patreon.
If you’re looking to learn more about the intersection of fashion, history, and race:
Kevin Jones
TikTok: @blactiquing
Jones uses his platform to showcase Black art, history, and experiences, through the 6,000+ pieces in his memorabilia collection. This collection includes both celebratory and racist items, and he breaks down his reasons for choosing to collect and preserve pieces through reclamation. Jones buys pieces and accepts donations, and is currently fundraising to establish a Museum of Black Experiences in Mississippi.
Liberated Threads, by Tanisha C. Ford
One of the best examples out there of how deeply intertwined fashion and politics are, and always have been. Fashion is a true reflection of the culture and society it is borne out of, and Ford does an incredible job at highlighting how Black women have shaped fashion and style in far-reaching ways many people don’t even realize.
“In this thought-provoking book, Tanisha C. Ford explores how and why black women in places as far-flung as New York City, Atlanta, London, and Johannesburg incorporated style and beauty culture into their activism. Focusing on the emergence of the "soul style" movement-represented in clothing, jewelry, hairstyles, and more-Liberated Threads shows that black women's fashion choices became galvanizing symbols of gender and political liberation.” (University of North Carolina Press)
Emi Ito
Website: https://littlekotoscloset.wixsite.com/littlekotoswords
IG: @little_kotos_words
Ito is an ethnic studies educator whose online content centers around cultural appropriation and misuse of ethnically significant clothing and artifact, with a focus on the East Asian experience in America.
If you’re looking to up your laundry game:
The American Cleaning Institute
Website: https://www.cleaninginstitute.org/
An excellent resource for all types of cleaning, with multiple sections of the website dedicated to laundry. Helpful pages include a stain removal guide, a guide to fabric care symbols, and solutions for common laundry problems.
Melissa Pateras
IG& TikTok: @melissadilkespateras
My personal favorite content creator for all things cleaning! Pateras covers everything from removing pit stains to folding a fitted sheet with a healthy dose of gay mom humor.
Jeeves New York
IG & TikTok: @jeeves_ny
Expert advice from a professional dry cleaner, Jeeves breaks down the science behind how and why certain laundry methods do (or don’t!) work. A great resource for comparing and reviewing specific products and methods, testing and experimenting, and plenty of laundry and garment care how-tos.
If it’s within your means, I recommend supporting the independent creators of these resources monetarily if they accept donations or patrons. There is so much labor involved in bringing us information, and many of these resources are being offered for free! You can also provide support via positive reviews, boosting content via interaction on social media, and by sharing resources you like with your community.
When it comes to books, I highly suggest seeking alternatives to Amazon. There are plenty of independent book sellers that need our support more than ever. If the title you’re looking for isn’t available directly through the author or via your local indie bookstore, try bookshop.org!
Next week I’ll be kicking off my laundry series. Make sure you’re subscribed so you don’t miss it! If you have vintage-loving friends that you think might be fans of 1-800-VINTAGE, I would truly appreciate you sharing my work. See you next week!