Welcome to The 100 Fashion Films Project

New newsletter, same vintage fun

“You’ve never seen Breakfast at Tiffany’s?” I’m asked incredulously. Again. Depending on who was asking, I’d consider delving into my lifelong avoidance of Mickey Rooney’s Mr. Yunioshi. But most of the time, I just shrug and say “It’s on the list!” You know the list: it’s long, it’s lofty, and it doesn’t really exist.

Or at least, it didn’t for a long time.

Then I finally asked myself, what if there really was a list?

What is The 100 Fashion Films Project?

I decided I wanted to watch the 100 movies that have been the most impactful to American fashion and style. After finishing each film, I would research its costume design and style themes, then rank it out of 10 for Fashion and Influence. Those scores are combined for a movie’s score “Overall as a Fashion Film.”

I’ve been sharing this project on TikTok since 2022, but it looks like our time with that platform may be coming to an end here in the US. For now, the videos are still available to view here. I’ve wrapped up that version of the project at movie number 47, and have decided that Substack is the perfect new home.

The six 10/10 fashion movies, so far

This publication will restart the 100 Fashion Films Project from the beginning, using my previously written research and videos. I’ll be making edits and improvements from the insight I’ve gained while completing the first half of the list. Some of the scores will be changing based on new metrics and additional information. I will not be releasing my written reviews in the same order that they appeared on TikTok. Many of my posts were intentionally timed for seasonality and cultural relevance, and I would like to continue to do so in line with my new pace here on Substack. The videos will remain up for as long as the app does!

Why Did I Start the Project?

When I started selling vintage professionally five years ago, I quickly realized that I was missing a huge piece of fashion history. Film fashion and costume design is deeply influential to culture and style, and I’ve been unable to make certain connections because I’ve never seen the source material. There was a pretty easy solution to that: watch more movies!

A few fashion favorites that I had never seen before starting this project!

Because I’m a student at heart, I wanted to take it a step further than just watching the movies. And if I would be taking the time to learn so much about costume design and film fashion, it made sense to share. I’ve loved my time on TikTok, and thanks to my community there, my project already has over 2 million views. I’m hoping that much of my original audience is able to find me here, and that the Substack iteration of this project takes on a life of its own.

How Did I Make the List?

I started compiling the original list through lots of research, social media polls, and conversations with friends and family across various demographics. I referenced many existing lists on movie sites, fashion publications, and other media sources. I also drew on my own experience as someone who hasn’t seen a lot of movies - what costume design was so effective that I knew exactly which character it came from, without ever having seen the movie?

Vintage dealers: does fall even start if you haven’t heard anyone mention Penny Lane yet?

I did create a few loose rules to keep things streamlined and avoid repetition. For any movies in a series, I only included the most quintessential film, typically the original. I tried to limit most directors to under 2-3 movies to showcase a broad range of styles. All of the movies on the list are fictional - they may be inspired by true stories and characters, but I did not include any documentaries or biopics. I also chose to leave off any movies in which a celebrity essentially starred as themselves, such as Purple Rain, because I felt like the fashion impact of the film was more an extension of their real life style influence.

The official list has changed since the start of this project, and will likely continue to change. Some movies, after I watched them, didn’t actually feel like they deserved a spot. 100 movies sounds like a lot until you really start thinking about how many impactful movies there are. Other movies weren’t originally on the list, but have earned their place by coming up repeatedly since I started the project, particularly in my research on other films. I’ve decided not to share the official list until my project is completed. It is, at its core, a personal project. There is no perfect version of this list that everyone will agree with, so I’ll refrain from opening up the peanut gallery.

Love Story (1970) was not on the original list, but ranked highly once it was added

As you’ve probably gathered, I’m not really a “movie person.” The length and format and depth always feel like way more of a commitment than TV, and I’ll admit that my attention span is fried. It’s taken me over two years to get less than halfway through my list, but I feel as though this project has already deeply impacted my appreciation and understanding of filmmaking and movies. That being said, I am not a movie critic or a film buff my any means. My reviews are based on lots of research and my personal opinions, much of which are made with minimal prior knowledge of film as a craft or as an industry.

What Can I Expect from the 100 Fashion Films Project Newsletter?

Because much of the initial research and legwork has already been completed, I’m planning on publishing at least two movie reviews per month. Large parts of each review will always be free to read, but my final thoughts and rankings will almost always be available exclusively to paid subscribers. I’ll be using this platform to release supplemental film fashion content as well, all within the framework of the project.

And in case you were wondering…

My favorite movies are Rosemary’s Baby, Spirited Away, The Matrix, 101 Dalmatians, and Casino. I love horror, animation, sci-fi, and drama. My favorite fashion decades are the 1960’s and the 1990’s. There are plenty of movies remaining on the list that I’ll be watching for the first time, so I’m hoping to discover more favorites as I continue.

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If you love all things vintage fashion and you’re finding me through this project, please subscribe to my original publication, 1-800-VINTAGE. That newsletter focuses on identifying, sourcing, and taking care of vintage clothing, along with essays on fashion history, secondhand shopping, and personal style.