Who's Who at the Whobilation
Winter dressing inspiration from an unlikely fashion destination
In the winter of 2022, I came to very important realization: I, Alex Stevens, dress like a Who. Specifically, the Whos in the 2000 holiday classic How the Grinch Stole Christmas. It might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you’re thinking of cinematic fashion inspo, but maybe it should be. The brilliance of the silver screen’s best Whovian fashion comes from none other than one of my personal style icons: costume designer Rita Ryack. In fact, much of my wardrobe actually falls into two distinctly Ryack-inspired camps. When I’m not in my Seussical finest, I’m putting on Sharon Stone in Casino. Two different fashion universes, same Ryack genius.
The Grinch was movie number 17 for my 100 Fashion Films Project, which you can follow along with on TikTok here. Each video review essentially starts as a brief research paper, and everything I learned about the costume design for The Grinch revealed how much worldbuilding and detail and labor went into Whovian style - Whocore, if you will. Hundreds of costumes were crafted just for the film, and Ryack collaborated with everyone from elementary schoolers to knitwear designers to bring Who style to life.
“Every button was chosen for it’s Seussian quality,” Ryack said in an interview.
The fashion of Whoville is defined by soft textures, arts-and-crafts embellishments, seasonal motifs, and vintage-inspired styling.
“For the zigzag, polka-dot and striped knitwear, Ryack went to New York designer Maria Ficalora and L.A. designer Susanne Cousins, whose nickname, appropriately enough, is Suss.
“The Grinch look has a lot to do with what I do. The asymmetrical lines, bright colors and bold designs have a real Scandinavian influence,” said Cousins, a native of Sweden, who has spun off her own line of licensed Grinch sweaters. She and two other knitters worked on hand looms in the back of the Beverly Boulevard Suss Design boutique to create more than 250 pieces for the film.”
A Whobilation of Color, Booth Moore for the Los Angeles Times
The movie opens with a group of giggling teen Whos, wearing the fully coordinated outfits of my dreams. The pink ensemble is undoubtedly the handiwork of Cousins and her knitting team.
The fact that both of these looks sold at auction for just over $500 each will haunt me forever. Do I need to own either of these for $500? Absolutely not. Would they even fit me? Who knows. Would I have spent the money anyways if I had the opportunity to? Absolutely yes.
I’m sure I’m not alone in finding Whoville extremely comforting. I think one of the most appealing elements of the Who wardrobe is its association with one of my favorite places in the world: bed. Not only does the movie feature plenty of literal pajamas, but even the daytime clothing plays with shapes and textures that feel akin to bedding. Oversized scarves are worn draped and blanket-like, plush embellishments are reminiscent of decorative pillows. Almost every textile in the Who closet could also be found on a cozy bed: chunky knits, fleece, velvet, quilting, faux fur.
Through Ryack’s costuming genius, the wardrobe perfectly reflects a holiday deeply enmeshed in bedtime rituals. Christmas excitement and anticipation revolves around sleep. Almost as important as the day itself is the eve, a night defined by cookies, anticipation, and visions of sugarplums, all brought on by the magic of going to bed.
On top of its literal softness, the silhouettes of the Who look is made up of soft shapes. The world of the Whos is round - fake button noses, bubble-toed shoes, pom poms and baubles. The Who costumes were fitted over body padding, giving most of the cast a similar soft, pear-shaped figure. The architecture of Whoville is curving and sloped, decked out in circular bells, ornaments, and lights. The cuts and hems of their clothing takes on similarly round shapes, seen in sweetheart necklines, shaggy fringed hems, puff sleeves, and ruffled collars.
“[Ryack] chose a 1950s aesthetic for the film’s 450 costumes, consulting vintage cookbooks for ideas for the many food-inspired outfits and scouring flea markets and antique shops for supplies,” described the LA Times. The 1950’s styling was likely a nod to Suess, who published How the Grinch Stole Christmas in 1957.
Ryack decided that if the Whos spent their entire year preparing for the holiday season, much of that time would be spent making their own clothing. For the most authentic DIY look, she went straight to the source: the costume designer tasked a class of 2nd graders to make many of the decorative gingerbread men, stars, presents, and other crafty embellishments seen in the film.
And despite being so round and soft and warm, the fashion of Whoville still manages to be sexy. In fact, most people remember this movie most for the bombshell looks of Martha May Whovier. If Mariah Carey is The Mother of Christmas, Christine Baranski is The Mommy. Martha May sighed and strutted and eye-rolled her way to becoming a holiday style icon/millennial gay awakening. And part of the sex appeal, I think, is in winter’s inherent modesty. There’s little skin to be seen throughout most of the movie, even Martha May’s lithe legs are hidden beneath festive red tights. The seductiveness is in the suggestion, in the idea that there’s something wonderful to unwrap. Her glamorous, fur-trimmed ensembles inevitably re-emerge on the fashion internet every year around this time, and for good reason.
I started combing through movie stills trying to pinpoint a Whocore color palette, and to my delight, I quickly realized that there isn’t one! There’s obviously an abundance of red and green, but pretty much every other color makes an appearance somewhere in the hundreds of vibrantly colored costumes. The Whos wear neutrals, bold primary colors, muted earth tones, and everything in between.
Who’s Invited to the Whobilation?
Sometimes I’ll come across a garment or a look that feels just like something a Who would wear. Obviously, those bad boys go right into my inspo folders. There are a few brands and designers in particular that capture Whocore through their soft textures, arts-and-crafts inspiration, and kitschy embellishments.
This whole Kenzo collection is so perfect, it took incredible self-restraint to narrow down just six looks to include. I’ll let you peruse the entire show at your leisure here.
And because it’s been on my mind lately as I scroll, a few recent instances of Whocore in the Wild:
A Current Affair recently posted this photo of dealer Winning & Losing showing off a vintage Christmas tree dress. The infinitely more interesting original version of the $4,000 (and sold out?!) Bode remake.
Fellow Substack writer Kari at Passage Keeper recently posted this delightfully Grinchy 1960’s cardigan.
Singer Savannah Hudson absolutely nailing Whocore. Furry bag? Big contrast buttons? Soft round collar? Purple gloves. Check, check, check, and check.
My friends over at Filthy Acres recently sold these hairy clogs. The Whos seem to opt for more color when it comes to their furry footwear, but these are pretty darn Suess-y.
Get The Look
If you were dubious at the beginning, I’d like to think you’ve come around. Whocore is camp, cozy, festive, and a little sexy. As a self-proclaimed expert in the style, it’s actually pretty easy to replicate. I came across so many Whocore pieces while I worked on this piece, all linked below exclusively for paid subscribers!
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