Your Clothes Aren't Dirty

You Just Think They Are

Aug 11, 2023

You know what’s actually kinda gross? Your phone, your house keys, the doorknob in your bathroom. Maybe go wipe those down. Or don’t, it’s probably fine. As far as your clothes go - they’re a lot cleaner than you think. There’s a long list of things Americans are weirdly obsessed with, ranging from the truly terrifying (incarceration, firearms) to the harmless (sour cream, Friends). Somewhere in the middle/bad side of that list falls the idea of being “clean.” And I’m using big ass quotes there, because our idea of “clean” isn’t about literally being clean. We’ve collectively wrapped up the concept of cleanliness with a lot of other ideas - clean is good, clean is sexy, clean is rich, clean is White with a capital W.

Americans compulsively “just throw it in the wash” because we value convenience and perceived cleanliness over actually caring for our stuff. While there are fine and obvious reasons why actual cleanliness is important, there are a lot of darker ideas lurking behind it all. You’re probably not here to listen to my armchair psychology, but I will say that we’re all wasting our time and money doing way too much laundry.

You almost certainly need to be washing all of your clothes way less. Vintage clothing can be delicate and is likely irreplaceable, high end clothing is (hopefully) valuable to you, and fast fashion is often too poorly made to withstand constant washing. Regardless of what kind of clothes you wear, every single wash cuts into the lifespan of a garment. The fabric shrinks and stretches as it takes on water, seams are pulled when garments tangle, colors loose their vibrancy. It’s just a fact: the less often you wash your clothes, the longer they last. Skip the dryer, and they’ll last even longer. And I’m not talking about your underwear, your socks, or your musty gym shorts, so relax. But honestly, if you wanna take your socks for a second spin, I’m not judging.

All of this doesn’t mean I’m telling you to just go out feeling crusty. The solution here is two fold: one part mindset shift, one part habit shift. It’ll take time to let go of the idea that your clothes don’t need to smell like detergent to be wearable, and it’ll also take physical work on your part to keep your stuff actually ready to wear.

Get in the Habit of Spot Cleaning

Next time you’re getting ready to launch a t-shirt towards your hamper, ask yourself this: is this garment dirty, or there just a dirty spot on this garment? A spill or stain doesn’t necessarily mean you need to wash the whole thing. Spot cleaning is actually relatively fast & easy once you’ve made it a habit. Some tips:

- Figure out the best place for you to tackle spot cleaning, and put together a stain toolkit to leave there for easy access. If the laundry machines are in your creepy basement, consider your bathroom. If every surface of your bathroom is somehow perpetually covered in your roommate’s boyfriend’s pubes (I wish this didn’t describe my last college apartment), consider your kitchen. Convenience is key here, so just pick a place that’s easy and pleasant, whatever that means for you.

- Treat the stain as soon as possible. If you’re out, grab a napkin and duck into a bathroom to absorb as much of the stain out of the fabric as possible. Don’t rub, just press. If you’re home, start the cleaning process ASAP.

- Get strategic. A quick online search can usually tell you how to best treat the specific stain you have. Olive oil, wine, and dirt are all treated differently, and knowing your method will yield you the best, quickest results. If you don’t know, look it up! Despite having tackled more than my fair share of stains from my years as a vintage dealer, there are still times I turn to the internet to double-check my knowledge before I start scrubbing.

Stay Fresh Between Washes

Quit the Crumple

One of my best friends refers to her ever-present pile of dirty-ish clothes as Jason. You could try and kill your Jason, but even the best of us know that he can feel sort of invincible. Folding or hanging things up right away goes a long way in helping them feel wearable, and to avoid the “wait, is it this clean?” debate, but that’s easier said than done.

If you know there’s just no way you’ll ever banish your Jason, try giving him a makeover. Resist the urge to ball things up, push them into a corner, or leave them where you stepped out of them. Pivot to draping your worn clothes instead - lay them flat-ish on a dresser, over the back of a chair, etc. It isn’t nearly as daunting as hanging or folding, but helps a lot with wrinkles, and prevents your clothes from picking up extra dust or dirt (or dog hair) from the floor. It also makes things easier to find! You can sort of peel through a draped pile, where as the crumpled floor pile can feel more like drunkenly digging for your house keys at the bottom of an overstuffed tote bag.

Make it Steamy

Steam is your best friend when it comes to refreshing and sanitizing your garments between wears. Not only will a steamer get rid of wrinkles, creases, and stiffness, but the high temperatures can actually kill the bacteria that causes funky smells. While an iron also smooths and sanitizes fabrics, I prefer steamers for two main reasons: versatility and convenience. Steamers are safe for almost all materials, where as irons can burn heat-sensitive fibers (silk, rayon) and crush fabrics with pile (velvet, corduroy). Irons are roughly the same size as a handheld steamer, but also require the extra space and storage of an ironing board. I have a very expensive commercial steamer because I run a vintage business, but I used this steamer for years and it worked really well.

If you don’t have a steamer or iron on hand, a steamy bathroom can help in a pinch. For garments that aren’t too delicate, a dryer can also function as a steamer if you add a little bit of moisture. There are a few ways to do this, so choose what feels right for you: you can either spritz your garment with a little bit of water, or add a small, damp washcloth or a few ice cubes in with your “dirty” clothes. Let spin on low-medium for 5-15 minutes depending on the piece. This is an easy, quick fix for sturdier fabrics and fibers that can hold up to being tossed around in some heat for a little.

At-home dry cleaning kits are a good option for bulkier items like coats and knits. I’ve used both this Dryel kit and these Woolite sheets with good results. This method won’t remove stains without additional treatment, but helps keep things fresh and sanitized between (expensive) drop offs. I personally find the scented versions for these a bit off-putting, so be mindful of the fragrances if you’re sensitive to smells.

Spritz, Please

There are a lot of spray products out there specifically for the purpose of refreshing your clothes. If scent is important to you in feeling like your clothes are clean, this may be a really helpful step for you. Many home, laundry, and beauty brands that you may already like and be familiar with make fabric sprays. There are also lots of recipes online for sprays you can make yourself with natural ingredients like essential oils and vinegar. Just be mindful of how certain fabrics may react to water, particularly silk. Use a spray nozzle with a very fine mister to avoid water spots, and spot test any delicate items before just hitting it all over. I personally don’t recommend “wrinkle release” sprays, as I don’t find them useful.

Layer Up

While I certainly don’t long for the days of corsets and girdles, there was definitely some practicality to the layers of yesteryear. Vintage dresses and skirts used to be worn exclusively over slips, not only for modesty, but also as a protective layer between you and your clothes. Slips aren’t personally my style as an undergarment, but I do often layer my vintage over base pieces like bike shorts and bra tops. My base layers are contemporary (read: cheaper) and sturdier (at least semi-synthetic), which makes them easier and safer to wash often than the vintage that goes over them. With the right combo of base layers, steaming, and spot cleaning, I can re-wear a vintage dress a dozen times or more before it needs to be washed.

Eventually, you will have to actually wash your clothes. If you work a dirty job, are extra sweaty, or have kids, you may find that cutting back on washing is pretty challenging. That’s okay! As a bartender, I’ve accepted that spot cleaning can work for my jeans after a sticky shift, but my work tees really need to be washed after every wear. Even though the washing is unavoidable, small changes to how you do it can make a big difference.

Machine Wash Tips

Use less product. Detergents are formulated to be really concentrated, so you’re most likely using more than necessary. A little goes a long way here! Just remember that there’s no risk in accidentally using too little detergent, but using too much can leave behind residue, give your fabrics a weird texture, and even cause skin irritation.
Skip fabric softener and dryer sheets. Not only are they unnecessary, but they can actually be harmful to you, your clothes, and your washer.
Keep it cool. I always wash in cold water, and I almost never turn the drier up past medium. Heat isn’t actually necessary in getting your clothes clean, but high temperatures are more likely to damage your clothing. It also requires more energy if you’re trying to be mindful of sustainability, or your electric bill. Keep in mind that there are certain cleaning products, most notably oxygen bleach (like OxiClean), that are activated in hot water. But unless the heat is actually part of the process, you can almost always skip it.
Load properly. Washing machines work with the help of friction, so a key element is your clothes rubbing against each other. The cycle won’t work properly if your machine is over or under loaded.
When possible, use a delicates cycle. Heavier and dirtier items like towels, denim, or athletic wear probably require more vigorous cleaning, but a lot of your garments can be washed as “delicates.” The cycle is shorter and gentler, saving your clothes from a lot of the aggressive spinning.
When in doubt, throw it in a bag. Mesh delicates bags are hands down the best way to machine wash anything that should be handled gently. Think about how your clothes are pulling and rubbing against each other, and bag anything that seems at risk for tangling, twisting, or tearing. This includes fabrics prone to ripping or snagging, like knits or lace, along with anything that has straps/strings/hooks that are prone to catch other garments or get twisted up.

Dryer Tips

If possible, skip it entirely! Dryers weren’t an American household staple until the 1940’s, and the rest of the world still doesn’t use them much, if at all. Air drying is by far the best option for the longevity of your clothes. If you can’t stand the stiffness of air dried clothes, hitting them with a steamer can really help soften things up. If you’re hanging outside, be mindful that direct sun can lighten certain fabrics. This is great for keeping your whites bright, but not as good for your black t-shirts.
Consider half-drying. I don’t have anywhere near enough space in my apartment to hang dry all (or even most) of my laundry. For certain pieces, I’ll just put them in the dryer for a short time. This middle ground means I help protect my stuff without having to wait two days for a soaking wet pair of knit pants to dry, or worry about stretching and warping because they’re too waterlogged.
At the very least, air dry your undies. Underwear are probably going to be your most frequently washed item, which also means they’re taking the most abuse from your washer and dryer. And you already know that replacing them is expensive! Underwear is easy to hang, dries relatively quickly, and doesn’t take up too much space, so it’s a relatively low-stakes switch to make.
Avoid over drying. Try your best to remove items from their cycle as soon as they’re dry enough. As someone who’s lived in New York for over a decade, I’ve dealt with everything from quarter-hungry basement machines to laundromats, and I know how inconvenient laundry can be. It’s easy to just smash that 1 hour button and check back later, even if you might only need 40 minutes. Checking back multiple times might feel annoying, but that extra 20 minutes of hot spinning isn’t doing your clothes any favors. And if you’re able to pull out pieces as they dry, the remaining items will dry even faster.
Invest in wool dryer balls. They offer the same effects as dryer sheets without the chemicals, while actually cutting down on drying time by absorbing excess moisture and keeping your wet clothes separated as they spin.
Clean the lint trap thoroughly with every use. Even the smallest amount of lint can block the airflow in your dryer, requiring your items to spin for longer to dry fully. Clogged dryers are also a major cause of fires! If you’re using a personal dryer, it’s a good idea to occasionally wash the lint screen itself. Seperate from the lint trap is the dryer vent, which is located behind your dryer. Your dryer vent should also be cleaned at least once a year.

Rethinking Clean

While all of this sounds good in practice, it still may feel weird for you to put a “dirty” dress back on. Besides just leaning in on my tendency to be lazy, here are some of the ways I’ve let go of my need to wash everything after every wear.

If you find yourself super fixated on the idea of seeming dirty, ask yourself what exactly it is that you’re worried about. Chances are, it probably has a lot more to do with other people than it does with you. You’re worried that people will notice your re-worn clothes and think you’re sloppy, dirty, maybe even gross. First of all, that means people have to notice it - they probably won’t. Second of all, that means that people have to notice it and make unkind assumptions about you - ew. Sounds like their problem, not yours.

You know who else has definitely re-worn the same shirt without washing it? Dolly Parton, Rihanna, and Keanu Reeves. Okay, I can’t really prove that, but I feel like it’s probably true. And much less impressive, but proveable: me! I’m often told by friends and acquaintances that they consider me to be particularly well-dressed. And I say this not to convince you that I’m fashionable (I am, duh), but to assure you that nobody knows or cares that I’m re-wearing “dirty” clothes. I wear my favorite pleated chartreuse skirt for months before washing it, and I receive nothing but compliments every time I step out in it.

Laundry is already a chore, so adding on tasks like spot cleaning, steaming, and air drying may just sound like extra work you don’t need to deal with. But what if you approached it less as tedious obligations, and instead as time you’ve been given to connect with your clothing? Don’t think of your laundry as piles of stuff, but as all of the special little pieces that you’ve chosen to represent you. Laundry is a great time to daydream about new ways to wear your clothes, to consider changes you could make to improve them, or just to take time to appreciate what you have. The more connected you feel to your clothing, the less of a burden it becomes to take care of them.

All of this advice, of course, comes from a place of privilege. It is a great privilege to have the time and ability to take care of your clothing, and to own clothing that you love and value. There are many reasons as to why this advice may not work for everyone, and there are times when you really just need to throw it all in the machine. That’s okay!

However, cutting back on unnecessary washing can end up saving you a lot of time and money in the long run. Scrubbing that coffee stain will probably take less than five minutes, while replacing that same garment altogether will take way more effort. Not only can you skip some laundry days entirely, but you’re also prolonging the lives of the beautiful things you worked hard to have.

Wondering what exactly a stain toolkit might look like? Wish I had gone into more detail about the best techniques for each type of stain? Don’t worry, I’ve got lots more laundry talk coming your way in future newsletters.

Next week, I’ll be getting into one of the most exciting parts of vintage: the hunt! My next newsletter will cover the ins and outs of damaged vintage. What to look for, what to avoid, and how to fix it. See you then!